Gentleman Watches: a guide to picking the perfect one

A gentleman's guide to picking the perfect watch

Looking to complete your look? Gentleman watches does just that. James Mainwaring, watch expert, explains the importance of a watch in modern men’s style and how you should go about choosing your next one.

Gentleman Watches such as Longines watches, are one of the key components that can make an outfit. No other element of men’s fashion combines function and style in quite the same way. Yet watches seem to have fallen out of favour in recent years, replaced by our phones and resigned to history like the monocle or the walking cane.

Fortunately, the watch is still considered to be a statement piece that is worn by stylish, modern men. Whether you’re looking to become a regular watch wearer or you want to up your fashion game, I’m going to walk you through everything you need to know about choosing the ideal timepiece to suit your style.

There are hundreds of different watches out there, from bulky functional sports models to luxury timepieces that track the movements of the planets. I’m going to focus on stylish watches for the everyday man that can be worn with certain outfits. Broadly, there are five options to choose from.

The Dress Watch

A gentleman's guide to picking the perfect watch

In the early 1900s, men started making the switch from gentleman pocket watches to wrist watches, and the first real design was the dress watch. Simple and sleek, this style was based on the idea of subtlety and class. With an understated functionality, they are ideal for anything from formal occasions to smart-casual affairs.

They were designed with thinness in mind to allow for an easy fit with dress shirts and generally constructed with a leather band. The face is typically square or rounded, with simple Roman or Arabic numerals bordering the perimeter.

What to wear it with: One of the most versatile designs, the dress watch is comfortable in anything from black tie and business suits all the way down to smart-casual. But, a dress watch will definitely be too much for jeans and a t-shirt.

The Field Watch

A gentleman's guide to picking the perfect watch

The big switch from pocket watches to the modern wristwatch occurred in World War One with the advent of the trench watch. This functional timepiece allowed soldiers to better coordinate their movements in the trenches, synchronising their watches to plan their attacks. The field watch is descended from the trench watch, with a functionally rugged design.

A hangover from their war usage, some models have a ‘hacking seconds’ feature, which allows the second hand to be stopped in order to synchronise with other watches. Generally small yet easy-to-read, the field watch is typically made using steel and titanium and works well with many looks.

What to wear it with: Great for the outdoors and adventuring, anything from casual up to business casual will suit this watch.

The Dive Watch

A gentleman's guide to picking the perfect watch

Probably second in popularity to the field watch, you will see many men wearing the dive watch out and about. That’s largely thanks to Sean Connery and his portrayal of the character James Bond, who has been sporting this famous watch since the early 1960s. As the name suggests, these watches were the first to be water resistant, allowing underwater use while remaining stylish.

Typically of metal construction, with an easy-to-read face, the watch is protected by a hardened mineral glass, keeping it working at depth.

What to wear it with: These watches look great in just about any outfit, from sportswear right up to the smartest of smart. If you get stuck, just copy Bond.

The Pilot Gentleman Watches

A gentleman's guide to picking the perfect watch

Specifically designed by Louis Cartier for a pilot friend back in 1904, the pilot or aviation watch has become a staple of men’s fashion. Complete with its signature chronograph, which was originally used to help pilots determine their air speed and fuel consumption, the aviator watch doesn’t have a single distinctive style, with many different types that vary in many different ways.

Generally, they are on the larger side, with an oversized dial and a face that is easy-to-read. Typically made with a leather band, but not always.

What to wear it with: The relaxed look of the Aviator makes it the perfect fit for a more casual style and shouldn’t be worn for anything formal or black tie.

The Racing Watch

gentleman watches

What started as a functional design for race car drivers, the racing watch has become a style in its own right. Originally designed by Rolex for the best drivers back in the 1930s, TAG Heuer later added the style-defining chronograph and tachymeter, used to measure speed and distance. This style of watch comes with a large dial, creating enough room to fit in the added extras. With large, clear numerals, driving watches are hardy and typically made of stainless steel, with either a leather or metal band.

What to wear it with: Flashier than their pilot watch counterparts, racing watches offer a bold look that is typically suited to casual wear.

Now you know about the five main styles of men’s watches and what to wear with each of them. Choose the right watch for your look and you’ll instantly stand out as a man of style and sophistication.

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